Monday, July 21, 2014

The People of Kashmir


During a week's stay in Kashmir, we hired a local taxi driver who was kind enough to keep us filled on what Kashmir is really like, what its people go through, and how the heavenly place often becomes unbearable. I'm going by what he told us when I share the information, as well as some of my own speculation, so bare with me if I'm factually lagging behind somewhere. Anyhoo, here goes, to the people of Kashmir! *raising a toast*

The Way the Locals Speak
Along with a very soft-spoken and delicate accent, the first thing you'll notice is that the multilingual Kashmiri people tend to ask everything in a negative-interrogative way when speaking in Hindi. For instance, if our driver would want to know if we'd like to stop for lunch, his question would precisely translate to - "You don't want to eat, right?". To make matters more confusing, they expect the answer as "yes", in return, which would have logically meant we DON'T want to stop, but....aaah well, I'm still confused when I think about it!

It had me and my family in stitches the first couple of times, but it's a head's up for tourists - don't get the locals wrong, that's just the way their Hindi rolls out! :)

The General Attitude of Vendors
When vendors approach you, they will make shameless attempts to blandish you into buying their products. Whether in an attempt to soft-soap you by lovingly calling you "didi" or "sahab", or spreading out their entire range of products right in front of you with a clever dialogue claiming "you don't have to buy anything, just check out my collection".

At Dal Lake, where a vendor convinced me and my
parents to get pictures clicked, all dressed up in the 
ethnic Kashmiri dress. Aah, what a delight!

To be honest, we did get carried away and purchased quite a bit of Kashmiri jewelry and winter-wear! You will realize that people in Kashmir are very dedicated and hard-working, they will not steal from you, but try to fleece your money with your consent.

The Will Power of The Local Kashmiri
One day as we were driving out of Srinagar, we noticed that the shops were closed, for a local protest. It led to a discussion where the taxi driver shared how the people are so used to living under our hostility that they are capable of stocking their homes with food and basic amenities for the span of a whooping 6 months!! He even mentioned a curfew that lasted so many months, and the fact that schools are shut down for such long periods. You and I can only imagine the effect of such extremity!

No Cinema, No Threat
Because of the high alert zones in Kashmir, even the state's capital Srinagar doesn't have a theater to watch movies at! As a resort to gain entertainment by some means, the locals are accustomed to watching pirated movies. *ahem*

Free Weapons
Up till the early 2000's, weapons were sold openly in the local market, and there was no concept of licenses or no-loaded weaponry, because of which thousands of hand guns were sold off, and are still being confiscated till date. Our driver testified that the Indian government has spent money like water, to bring peace into the terrorized state. With every word he spoke, my goosebumps magnified!

High Patrolling
There are armed gunmen at every second step of the way, always on the lookout for local conflict. Though tourists are normally not harmed, the locals are always in the loop when it comes to trouble. He mentioned that there isn't one day when someone is shot down!

Closed shops, patrolling and empty streets
are a part of the daily life of Kashmiris!

Just after that, noticing how we all became perturbed, he brightened the mood by talking about how after an accident, people in Saudi Arabia first embrace each other thanking that they both came out alive, and then head to court to handle the situation professionally. Even though I had no clue if it was true or not, all I could say at the moment was - faith in humanity restored. :)

King-Sized Living
The one thing that amazed me about the city of Srinagar was its gigantic houses, which were no less than the definition of modern palaces! And there weren't just a few of them - almost ALL of them were generously invested in, built over large plots and spaced out liberally. And the taste in which they were built? Simply awe-striking!

He added that many Kashmiri NRI's come around the year to simply stay in their houses for a while and head back out. Being a Delhi-ite you begin to envy such comfort. But then you stop yourself, remembering, it comes with a price.

The Mughal Effect
You'll notice the roads are very well built, in Kashmir, except sometimes, you'll see enormous trees standing almost stray, in the middle of nowhere. When questioned, we learnt that these trees mark the period of the Mughal Dynasty, when maple trees were imported into the region by the rulers. Unlike many humans who have chosen to ruin nature for their temporal greed, the Kashmiris have chosen to let these majestic and historical marks pertain. In return, the maple trees beam down on Srinagar, blessing it with shade and shelter.

My dad standing next to a massive tree!

The Value for Education
As I had mentioned previously about dominant curfews and closed schools, it inspired me greatly to see that even then, the people chose to put their money into raising their children with whatever education is available. From the driver (who has two daughters), to the hotel manager, and from the horse guide to local vendors - I met many like-minded people who believed in the power of education, that too for both their sons and daughters!

The Muslim Wedding
An absolutely stunning thing I learned about Muslim weddings of the area was the minuscule amount that people chose to spend on weddings, and preferred to give to their children for their marriage instead. Furthermore, people who celebrate in a hotel are considered cheap, as the true essence of weddings lies in families gathering up at home and having a gala time with home-made delicacies and homely celebrations.

This down-to-earth practice is the complete opposite to weddings here in Delhi, where often, it's all about the gifts exchanged, money ploughed and dines-and-decorations.

And to think, these wonderful people live only miles away. I learnt a lot on this trip, and hope you will be just as marveled as you take a peak of what the people of Kashmir are like! Stay tuned for more of my unforgettable memories. :)

4 comments:

  1. Vasu beautifully portrayed- I look forward to more virtual experiences and imagery through your eyes. Thankyou for sharing. VG

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    1. Thanks so much, will definitely post more thoughts with time :)

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